By the Bouwsector België team, 97 in-house tradespeople · reviewed by Geert Jan Hendrik, director · updated
You can plaster old walls perfectly well in a renovation, as long as the preparation is right: loose layers off, glue residue gone, chases and holes filled. Each substrate also gets the right pre-treatment. The wall then receives a layer ready for painting, at €22.99 per m² with us, including materials and excluding VAT.
Want your old walls neatly plastered in your renovation? Request your quote
Plastering is the route if you want a smooth, painted wall after the renovation and the wall is too uneven for paint alone. Think of walls where pipes have been chased in, where a wall has been taken out or where old plasterwork has been repaired. A layer ready for painting brings all those spots back into one flat surface.
If you would rather have wallpaper on the wall, renovation fleece in a renovation is often the quicker route. In homes that have stood for years, the risk of new shrinkage cracks is smaller than in a new build, which makes plastering a good choice there. If you are still undecided, compare plaster and renovation fleece for your walls.
What preparation does each old substrate need?
In a renovation there is rarely just one type of substrate in the house. Brick next to plasterboard, old lime plaster next to a freshly filled chase. Each substrate needs something different before the new layer will bond to it.
Substrate
What happens first
Source or explanation
Bare, highly absorbent masonry such as sand-lime brick or aerated concrete
Test the suction and pre-treat with a plaster primer
Knauf MP 75 and Multi-Finish technical data sheets
Smooth concrete
Pre-treat with a bonding agent
Knauf MP 75 technical data sheet
Old lime plaster
Remove the finishing layer and pre-treat with a deep-penetrating primer
Knauf Multi-Finish technical data sheet
Transition between two materials, such as a filled chase
Fibreglass reinforcement in the fresh plaster
Knauf MP 75 technical data sheet
Old paint layers
Loose paint off, roughen or pre-treat firmly bonded paint
Assessed during the site visit
Wallpaper glue residue
Wash off completely until the wall feels rough
Plaster bonds poorly to old glue
Hollow-sounding or crumbling plasterwork
Remove and rebuild
Otherwise a new layer comes away with it
All the data sheets begin with the same requirement: the substrate must be dry, clean and stable, free of dust, grease and other contamination. In a renovation, with demolition dust everywhere, that is the point that needs the most attention.
How are holes, chases and broken-out sections repaired?
After laying new electrical wiring or pipes, moving a door or removing a chimney breast, there are often deep holes and chases in the wall. These are filled first until flush with the surrounding wall, before the layer ready for painting goes over them.
We fill deep spots in stages. In the MP 75 data sheet, Knauf specifies that a layer thicker than 25 mm is applied in two passes, with the second layer only going on once the first has hardened. That is why we fill a deep chase in stages and not in one go.
At the joint between the filled chase and the old wall, two materials that behave differently meet. According to the same data sheet, fibreglass reinforcement belongs in the fresh plaster there, to limit new cracks. If such a transition cracks later anyway, the question is whether to touch up cracked plaster or have it redone.
On external corners created during the renovation, such as a new doorway or the opening to an extension, we fit a corner bead. We count corner beads per running metre.
Can’t you just put a thick layer over everything?
No, that actually costs you money later. A thick layer seems to solve everything, but it only hides what is underneath. If there is a hollow spot, a layer of glue residue or a dusty substrate underneath, the new layer clings to that, and comes away with it again.
The opposite misconception exists too: that everything has to be stripped bare first. Old plasterwork that is firmly attached everywhere can often stay, even in a 1930s house. That saves the cost of removal, and it saves demolition work and rubble in a house that is already full of dust.
You make the difference by tapping the wall. If the wall sounds solid everywhere, a new layer can go over it. If it sounds hollow, that section has to come off first. We make that assessment wall by wall, not house by house.
What does plastering walls in a renovation cost?
The plaster layer itself has a fixed price per m². What differs from one renovation to the next are the items before it: removal, corner beads and covering the floor.
Work
Price
Plastering walls, traditional, ready for painting (materials included)
€ 22.99 per m²
Plastering ceiling, ready for painting (materials included)
€ 23.99 per m²
Removing plaster, thin or thick
€ 14.99 or € 22.99 per m²
Corner beads, per running metre
€ 16.00
Laying a floor protection runner, 60 to 120 m²
€ 274.99
Work charged at an hourly rate
€ 47.50 per hour
Prices exclude VAT. For renovation work on a home over 10 years old, VAT is usually 6%; otherwise it is 21%. The VAT rate is stated in the quote.
An example for a ground floor with 80 m² of wall, of which 15 m² has a thin loose layer, 6 metres of new external corner and 70 m² of floor to cover: removal 15 × €14.99 = €224.85, plastering 80 × €22.99 = €1,839.20, corner beads 6 × €16.00 = €96.00 and the floor protection runner €274.99. Total €2,435.04.
How does the plastering fit into your renovation schedule?
The work is done by one of our 32 plasterers, from a team of 97 permanent tradespeople, which also includes 40 wallpaper hangers and 25 painters. We plan the plastering, the painting or wallpapering afterwards and the drying time in between ourselves.
Plan the plastering after the rough work: demolition, pipework and new openings in a wall must be finished, otherwise the plasterwork gets damaged again. A plasterer plasters 100 m² a day on average. The layer then has to dry; according to Knauf, gypsum plaster can be dry enough for paint after about four weeks under good conditions.
If your renovation falls in winter, plastering in the cold needs extra attention in the planning.
In your request, tell us what is happening in the renovation: which walls are being opened up for pipes, where a doorway is going and whether there is still wallpaper or old plasterwork on them. With those items in view, you receive a free quote within 24 hours. During the site visit we tap the walls, look at the substrates and take measurements.
Want to go through the plastering for your renovation with a project manager?
Yes. Brick and other masonry are well suited to plastering, but often absorb strongly. Knauf specifies testing the suction and pre-treating a highly absorbent substrate first. During the site visit we look at how flat the masonry is and what pre-treatment is needed.
Does a wall need priming before plastering?
That depends on the substrate. A highly absorbent wall gets a plaster primer, smooth concrete a bonding agent, and a rough gypsum substrate often nothing. Which pre-treatment is right, we determine wall by wall during the site visit.
Can you have a damp wall plastered?
No. The gypsum manufacturer Knauf requires a dry substrate, and a plaster layer over a damp wall only hides the problem. First the cause of the damp has to be resolved and the wall allowed to dry out.
Can you plaster an old wall yourself?
Most people can manage filling small holes. Getting a whole wall smooth in one plane takes experience, and an uneven layer shows as soon as the paint goes on. One of our plasterers plasters 100 m² a day on average.
How long after plastering can you carry on in a renovation?
Wallpaper hangers and painters only start once the plaster layer is dry. According to Knauf, gypsum plaster can be dry enough after about four weeks under good conditions. We plan laying floors or fitting a kitchen in consultation, so that the plasterwork does not get damaged.